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Days 1-2 – Arrival and First Impressions
There are few arrivals quite like the Falkland Islands. After departing RAF Brize Norton and a short stop at Ascension Island, we finally touched down at Mount Pleasant. The drive to Stanley unfolds across vast landscapes, big skies and a sense that you’re stepping into a place that is still wild and untouched.
From the balcony of the Malvina House Hotel, I looked across Stanley Harbour. By day, the scene is extraordinary – working vessels clustered and moving in patterns that feel lifted straight from historic photographs – they’re here for mandatory safety inspections before the fishing season starts. At night, the squid jiggers come alive with bright lights, buzzing across the water, but it’s the daytime rhythm of the harbour that really evokes history.
Field Note: “In daylight, Stanley Harbour looks like a living history painting – vessels quietly going about their work, unchanged for generations.”
Day 3 – The Endurance Model Unveiling
One of the highlights of the trip came almost immediately. The Endurance model, now housed at the Jetty Visitor Centre, was officially unveiled to more than 140 attendees. With good food, good wine, stirring speeches and warm applause, it was a moment that brought together the local community, partners and government representatives.
Having seen the model before when it was loaded aboard RRS Sir David Attenborough, it was a delight to see it again at the end of its journey, now settled into its new home in the Falklands. Coverage from Falklands Islands TV and the Penguin News reflected just how strongly this story resonates locally as well as globally.
Field Note: “It’s wonderful to see Vitaliy’s craftsmanship again, this time on display for everyone to enjoy – a journey completed.”
Days 4-5 – Museum and Archive Exploration
The next couple of days were devoted to exploring the museum and archives. I’ve worked in many archives before, but the Falklands was exceptional: beautifully organised, full of treasures related to Shackleton and maritime exploration.
The museum itself was incredible, with an entire upstairs floor dedicated to maritime history, plus a fantastic downstairs display on the Battle of the Falklands. Both the museum and the Jetty Visitor Centre also had brilliant gift shops… and I couldn’t resist!
Field Note: “Every drawer and shelf had a story – logs, photographs, maps – it’s a treasure trove for anyone interested in the Falklands’ maritime past.”
Days 6-7 – Lighthouse and Cape Pembroke / Billy Rock
A visit to the lighthouse with the Museum team was unforgettable. Standing at the edge of the islands, looking out across the sea, the practical and symbolic importance of these structures became tangible, guiding ships safely through some of the most dangerous waters in the world.
Nearby lies Billy Rock, a submerged reef that has wrecked many ships. Just half a mile off Cape Pembroke, it claimed vessels including the SS Oravia in 1912 and the barque Levenside in 1852, with up to fifteen wrecks scattered across the reef. The lighthouse was built precisely to prevent further tragedy, a powerful reminder of the perils of Falklands waters.
Field Note: “Billy Rock lurks just beneath the waves — a silent maritime graveyard. The lighthouse stands as both guide and guardian.”
Days 8-10 – Making connections
One of the best parts of the trip was meeting the people who keep Falklands maritime life moving. I spent time with everyone from the Harbour Master and Maritime Authority to government teams, the Receiver of Wreck, and the Fire Service. The Tourist Board was equally brilliant to work with. These conversations reminded me how vital it is for FMHT’s work to be shaped by local knowledge and how inspiring it is to see so much shared passion for the islands’ history.
Days 11-13 – Out to the Oldest Farms
A trip to Salvador, one of the oldest sheep farms in the Falklands (Gibraltar Station), offered a fascinating glimpse of contemporary life tied to the maritime landscape. Observing sheep farming in action and exploring the coastal environment, it became clear how interwoven agriculture and maritime heritage are here.
Field Note: “Sheep grazing beside the sea, historic farm buildings and glimpses of old maritime routes, you can feel the layers of history in every corner of the land.”
Days 14-20 – Wildlife and more ‘Camp’ Adventures
Some of the most magical moments came off the beaten path. Trips out into ‘camp’ and a life altering evening trip to Kidney Island, offered encounters with extraordinary wildlife: tens of thousands of sooty shearwaters returning to roost, rockhopper penguins hopping across the cliffs and humpback whales feeding offshore. The trek through 10ft high tussock grass – hoping we wouldn’t come across a sleeping sea lion (if you know, you know!) was exhilarating. I managed to fall over no less than 3 times, but tussock is thick, so I simply bounced back up again.
At Whale Point, visiting the wreck of the St Mary, we came across elephant seals. Massive, immovable and quietly awe-inspiring. Gentle giants but deserving of a very respectful distance.
Field Note: “140,000 shearwaters swarming the sky at sunset — it was overwhelming in the best way. It felt like I was in a David Attenborough documentary.”
Wrecks Everywhere
The density of maritime heritage in the Falklands is extraordinary. From the wrecks of the Canache to the Lady Elizabeth and the remains of the Charles Cooper perched high on a hill, each wreck tells a different story. Some sit improbably high above the shoreline, others slowly return to the landscape – like the Jhelum, which was far more degraded than I was expecting.
Field Note: “Every wreck has its own personality – some proud, some crumbling, all with stories to tell. Everywhere, the past sits alongside the present: squid jiggers, cruise ships, tenders and small skiffs – a living maritime environment layered over centuries of history.
Looking Ahead
This trip has done more than check boxes. It has refined how we think about FMHT’s forward plan, not just the major expeditions, but how to capture the full sweep of maritime life in the Falklands. From global discoveries to everyday working vessels, each story contributes to the bigger picture.
A huge thank you to everyone who made the trip so memorable – Saul and Caroline for their hospitality, Mensun and Jo for welcoming me aboard and Zak and Libby for brilliant trips with Bound Tours.
Field Note: “The landscapes, the wildlife, the people and the wrecks, all remind you why we do this work. And there is still so much more to explore.”